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Onsen: A Peek into Japan’s Hot Springs (one-from-nippon.ghost.io)
54 points by zdw on Aug 20, 2023 | hide | past | favorite | 51 comments


I've visited hot springs dozens of times, but one experience was by far the best. I stayed at a 400 year old onsen hotel in late winter(feb) with a private bath on the balcony overseeing a river in the mountains.

The loud white noise of the river, the terrible insulation and sleeping on the floor made the night not the most comfortable. But when I woke up early and went to the balcony I tested the water with my feet. It was still 40 degrees and it felt amazing in contrast to the chilly mountain air. I couldn't help but to throw my robe off and enjoy the bath fully submerged.

I only had an hour until checkout, but that sense of the moment slipping out of your hands made it all the more precious.


Similarly, a bath in a balcony in the mountains is one of the best experiences of my life.

There was a continuous flow of hot spring water into the large square bath, big enough for two or three people.

As you say, the contrast of the cold mountain air and the hot bath with amazing views is just fantastic.


Hello HN! Author here. This was an absolutely _fascinating_ topic to research and write about. So many different perspectives and so much depth to each of them.

I am not sure I got all the parts about the geology right and would love any chance to learn from those who know better!


Have you seen Thermae Romae Novae? It's a manga with a Netflix anime adaptation about onsen. Very well-made and it was what got me first interested in onsen!


I haven't seen the manga version, but loved the movie adaptation with Abe Hiroshi in it.

@strobe999 linked to the Wiki article for the manga. The story follows Lucius, an architect in ancient Rome, who timeslips into modern day Japan. He carries ideas from modern Japan's bathing culture back and builds the public baths of Rome. It's a comedy, but a very informative one at that.


I saw that show, and as an onsen fan loved it, but recently I stumbled upon a pretty interesting article on how Roman baths were... not all that great from a health/hygiene perspective: https://archive.is/Y1un4


Theres an entire manga plus anime adaptation covering this fascinating topic, for anyone invested in these media formats.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermae_Romae


And two movies, with Abe Hiroshi.


I was in japan for the first time earlier this year for 6 weeks. I travelled around with my japanese girlfriend and the first night we spent at a traditional inn in Hakone were we booked a private onsen later at night.

In short: It was amazing. It smelled a little funny at first but it felt incredibly relaxing, my skin felt really good afterwards and it was perfect to recover from the 16 hours of flight earlier. At home I also regularly take hot baths in the bathtub but it can't compare at all with the night sky view and the whole ritual around it. I'll be back in japan this october for an extended amount of time and I will absolutely go to onsen every chance I get.


WTF. Part 3 is for subscribers only? This is one of the worst kinds of bait and switch I’ve seen in recent years.

Either make your article open, or make it closed. Don’t limit arbitrary parts when you split it up due to size (which you’re already doing not due to size but due to advertisements).


I thoroughly enjoyed this piece. Going to an onsen can at first be a bit daunting with all the rules and etiquette, but it was definitely worth it.

Sitting in a hot onsen while it's snowing, peacefully in the middle of nature.. it was an incredible experience.


> Going to an onsen can at first be a bit daunting with all the rules and etiquette

It’s daunting only in that you are worried about them. As long as you wash yourself before you step in you’re not committing any crimes more atrocious than the Japanese visitors :) (and some of those barbarians don’t wash themselves either)


I love onsens so much, but this is also true in a hot tub at a ski area. Fond memories of Tahoe and Colorado.


I’ve done both but in Japan the actual natural hot spring water is just an incredible addition to the experience which imo cannot be matched in a traditional hot tub.


If anyone is interested in how Western visitors viewed Japanese baths and onsen in the 19th and early 20th centuries, I compiled some accounts here:

https://www.gally.net/jatsi/culture/bathing.html


About fifteen years ago shortly after high school I spent a week of our two week trip at an Onsen in Tsu. It was the off-season and we were among only a small handful of guests. The place was pretty off the beaten path and the staff spoke no English. I was not a Japan-o-phile, unlike my friends whom I was with, and yet I found a strong and unexpected appreciation of the beauty and atmosphere of the place, the rain, the warmth of the water, the process of purifying yourself before entering. It was formative.


Maybe this is covered in part 3, but some towns have a municipal onsen water service for private households. I was recently talking to a real estate agent in southern Kyushu who said that every household in his town could pay 3000yen per month to get unlimited onsen water piped into their home between 7am-10pm every day.


Do you know why 7AM to 10PM? That sounds like some employee is necessary to facilitate piping the water, but I can't imagine what role they would have that isn't automated with standard municipal water.


Municipal style "network" onsen will distribute onsen water but the broad distribution means the water cools down.

My guess would be the city does not wish to run the reheaters during low use periods.

Onsen piping requires maintenance, more than regular water systems, but not daily.


Anyone here been to an onsen? Does it really match the marketing or is this more of people falling over themselves with Japan fascination?


I've been to an onsen during a trip to Japan. The entire process, from the washing ritual to immersing oneself in the hot spring, is an experience that's hard to articulate

Whether it aligns with the marketing or is part of the "Japan fascination", I think, is really hard to say especially as an outsider myself

There's a tranquility to the surroundings, but it's often disrupted by throngs of tourists.

we weren't prepared for the intensity of the sun, even on an overcast day. got chafed and sunburned after a day out, a reminder that nature has its way. that being said, immersing in the onsen was surreal in its relaxation, a balm for the burns.

In any case it was an experience, certainly not a cheap one, and it was punctuated with moments of discomfort but also deep relaxation.


> In any case it was an experience, certainly not a cheap one

Do you mean the onsen, or travel to Japan in general? Onsen are typically less than 1000 yen to enter - quite cheap for the relaxation they give you.


Second this. Even some cheap (~$30 per night) guesthouses have onsen. Also you can often get into the fancy hotel onsen by paying a small fee, even when you are not staying.


I would imagine most of tourists experience onsen during ryokan visit instead of going to separate bathhouse and those tend to be somewhat expensive.


>In any case it was an experience, certainly not a cheap one, and it was punctuated with moments of discomfort but also deep relaxation.

Fancy onsen ryokan can be quite pricy, but I wouldn't say it's expensive in general. I'm currently in Matsuyama and entry to the Dogo onsen bathouse (one of the oldest hot springs in Japan) is like 460 yen per person.

Many hotels also have hot spring baths in onsen towns without it being too expensive. Dormy Inn is a good example. That's a chain of business hotels which always comes with a bath in the top floor. Price is a bit more expensive than regular business hotels, but nothing over the top.


Onsen are great (being out in a starry night in a rotenburo (outdoor bath) with a light snowfall is a must-experience IMO), but a lot of what you're paying for will be the traditional ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) experience and kaiseki (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner) that usually accompanies an onsen stay.

Personally, I'm a big fan, and I'd recommend everyone to give it a try if they can (but to also research the manners, rules, and exceptions - tattoos are a big no no in most public onsen). For those visiting an onsen for the first time, you can use a site like https://selected-ryokan.com/ (which includes private onsen) or (my recommendation) Booking.com to find something tourist friendly and read the reviews.


You can find ‘just onsen’ in Tokyo too, no need to go far out of your way. Though you’ll be missing some of the experience of natural beauty.

It is however, significantly cheaper. I think we can enter for like 500 or 700 yen.


Onsens are great! I go to several every year. They're especially good after hikes or winter sports like skiing.

The best I've been to have outdoor areas with snow falling, it can be so peaceful and relaxing.


Yes. They are pretty awesome.

What blows my mind is that some are crazy hot. I recall one where I could barley keep my feet in only to have some local Japanese kids jump in as if it was a play bath.


Fun experiment, watch how many articles about Japan make it to the HN front page versus just about any other country (that's not America).


Japan is in the unique position of being very different from western countries, while still being extremely easy for westerners to come to and move around in.


Onsen are geat! I love them. I especially recommend outdoor onsen (Called rotenburo) in winter when it is snowing. You have to get over the first hurdle to be totally naked with strangers. But I often go at a time when it is mostly empty. Disclaimer: I live in Japan.


I found them fantastic and wish we had anything similar in this part of the world. But I don't know you can possibly trust my answer, or any other that speaks positively of onsen, if you suspect people might just be falling over themselves with Japan fascination.


Yasuragi in Stockholm Sweden is a popular Japanese style spa retreat. Highly recommended if you have time to spare and relax. I love going especially in the winter to relax and leave the digital stressful everyday life.

https://www.yasuragi.se/en/


I can second this location. It’s more of a spa than an Onsen though. An incredibly expensive and award-winning one!


It’s just a different way of having a nice spa.

I found the ritualistic traditions around it to be calming. I spent a few hours at the one I was in and it was silent and almost meditative. I remember leaving afterwards thinking that I had a pretty much blank mind while there and was entirely present in the moment.


It took me a few years to get used to, but now when I'm in Japan I can't start my day (or end it) without 15 minutes in the onsen.

Best experience was going to one in the mountains, in the middle of winter, only person there, and sitting in the 40C water in a snowstorm.


I went to several on my pre-covid Japan trip.

1 was in a city and big and quiet plastic. 1 small suburban on that was very traditional and one near Fuji was about 50% outdoors. All were really nice.

I really wish we had something like this here in London.


Regularly. Sento and onsen are part of life and travel here in Japan. Some are better than others but they're always welcome, especially when on a bike camping trip.


Its marketing + the "conspicuous leisure" class over uses Japan all the time to signal/buy status. If you can afford it great. If you cant, its not the end of the world.


?

Onsen are available at all price levels, and popular with blue-collar workers; they are not a high-class exclusive activity. It's not like having dinner with a geisha or something.


For anyone looking to experience this in Japan yourselves, be sure to research where to go before showing up.

Some onsen will find a polite-sounding excuse to deny foreigners, and most onsen will not let anyone in with visible tattoos.

The tattoo bias was originally intended to discriminate against criminals/yakuza and is now used to discriminate against foreigners.

Source: My wife was kicked out of one onsen after undressing, and I saw several signs against tattoos.


It's not used to discriminate against foreigners. I don't have tattoos and have been able to use all onsen in Japan just fine.


While I can’t speak to the tattoos, I have never found an onsen that rejects foreigners in my 11 years here.


Same for the romans. Volcanics are at fault..


My two complaints about Onsen are:

1. They are gender separated. So when travelling as a straight couple or in groups you likely can’t share the experience together. Some see this as a plus. I see it as a minus. Put it down to personal preference.

2. Must be nude. Ok well I guess I’m just a prude, but I don’t enjoy the concept of being nude in front of others. Rules out German style spas too.

3. Bonus issue. Tattoos. Because of the criminal association with Tats in Japan you can possibly find it hard to use an Onsen (Ie banned).


There's a solution to all of your problems: kashikiri (private / reserved) onsen.

These are smaller, private onsen designed for families or couples (or, I suppose, the shy foreigner). They're fairly common.


I’m sure the Japanese have many complaints about Western culture when travelling too. Ultimately these are their traditions and we should respect them.

I visited an Onsen recently in Bangkok (artificial of course) and the locals were very vocal about any perceived lack of decorum.


I’m not saying we shouldn’t respect them. I’m just saying they aren’t for everyone and these items in particular weren’t really discussed in the article.


it's 3 parts, so they may or may not be covered.

But even as a westerner, I figure the whole "must be nude" was a given, public or not. It is still technically a bath after all, despite technically showering before submerging yourself. But that may just be the decades of Japanese media exposure making something seemingly obvious to me.


There are mixed-gender onsen if you prefer, although they are becoming less common. But if you have difficulty being nude in front of others, you probably don't prefer that. Best to stay at a ryokan that has a private onsen attached.




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